"But do you have to bleach it?"
It's a question I often hear when people ask about my hair. If you follow me on Instagram, you've probably noticed that I've been sporting a deceptively natural tone of shocking blue since November 2014. The reactions I get range from joy and admiration -- usually the little ones or elderly black women who are always very interested in the process -- to dirty looks and occasionally prolonged stares.
If you want to colour your hair, the reality is that you're going to have to make some sacrifices. Because of the way our hair is structured, the actual pigment in your hair is not immediately reached. Think of how a tattoo artist must penetrate the epidermis layer of your skin in order to make the ink permanent -- hair is similar in that regard. However, hair's structure is also quite a bit different from human skin, and in some ways (in my opinion) easier to work with.
Your skin has three main layers, the middle one being the "dermis". The heart shape denotes the area that the tattoo artist will be injecting the ink into; if they were the inject it into the epidermis, the tattoo would eventually be shed away with the dead skin cells on the surface. Subcutaneous is a fancy way of saying that something is beneath the skin -- in this case, the subcutaneous tissue is generally fat. You don't want your tattoo ink in here.
Likewise, when working with the hair shaft we have three main layers. The cuticle is the first layer, and the cortex is what actually houses the pigment in your hair. Unlike tattoos, one does not "inject" hair colour into the cortex by means of penetrating the cuticle. Instead, we're actually going to be lifting the cuticle in order to access the cortex itself. This is what is meant by hair colourists when they talk about "lifting" hair colour via bleach.
But wait, bleach is bad for you! You're damaging your hair! ... Well, yes. You would be damaging your hair in this process. What I want you to take away from this article is that damage isn't a word you should be afraid of. The reality of hair is that the cuticle is an incredibly fragile layer, by itself; simply by going outside in the sun, the cuticle is damaged. The cuticle is damaged by extreme heat, cold, even shampoo. Chances are, even if you've never coloured your hair before, your hair has already sustained some level of damage. What's important is not how your hair is damaged but how you take care of it after it's damaged.
The Damage
There are several types of damage which each have separate causes, so you can pinpoint what's damaging your hair and care for it accordingly. I wouldn't say you can "eliminate" damage factors, as for some of us this isn't a readily available option; that's like telling someone up north to factor out the cold wind that's drying out their hair, or someone down south to avoid exposure to the sun. Not exactly feasible for everyone.
Natural/Environmental damage: Exposure to cold air, humidity, and the general environment around us takes a daily toll on your hair and your skin. And in some cases, maybe your emotional health too.
Mechanical damage: Remember hearing that brushing your hair is actually bad for it? Brushing too hard, too often, or using a standard hairbrush on wet hair can create this variety of damage. Opt for combing through your damp hair with a wide-toothed comb or your fingers instead.
Photo-chemical damage: This is a really fancy way of saying UV damage. This is specific to those of us who spend a lot of time in the sun or in tanning beds without protecting our hair, which can create dull and porous strands.
Thermal damage: Don't worry, this is probably not caused by being outside in hot weather. Heat damage is generally caused by blow dryers, flat irons, and curling irons. If you need to use heat styling, there are a wide range of protective serums -- and most modern tech has heat controls so you can turn it down from 400 F.
Chemical damage: The dreaded chemical damage! As the name suggests, this occurs during any chemical treatment of your hair, whether you're straightening it, relaxing it, or bleaching it.
Systematic damage: This one can be a little more difficult to pinpoint because each individual experiences things in their own way. If you're taking care of your hair religiously and you're still struggling with damage, the cause may be something deeper. Medical conditions, genetics, prescriptions, and diet all contribute to your overall hair health.
The Solution
I would like to preface this with one key point; there is no "miracle" product on the market that will magically reverse the damage done to your hair. Because your hair is a dead structure like your nails, the damage that is done will be irreversible from a biological standpoint. However, caring for your hair in its damaged state can help to maintain its strength and prevent symptoms of damage, e.g. breakage.
Coconut oil: You're probably sick of hearing about coconut oil by now. There's a reason everyone talks about it, though; its chemical makeup is the most similar to our own natural hair oils. This means it's one of the few oils that can actually moisturize the hair shaft. If you can't stand coconut, or if you're allergic to it, there are other options you can try, even your natural hair oils. Which brings me to my next point...
Sebum: Stop stripping your natural oils! Please, I beg of you. The reason shampoo can be bad for your hair is because it doesn't just strip the dirt from it -- it strips everything from it. Your body secretes these oils to repair and nourish your hair and skin cells, and sometimes just letting it do its thing can be the best treatment solution for you.
Conditioner: It's basically been formulated to compensate for the problems shampoo can cause. If you absolutely need to shampoo your hair, make sure you're pairing it with a healthy dose of conditioner to moisturize and protect the hair cuticle... or you can try the no 'poo life. Personally, I've been washing my hair solely with this conditioner, and I love it for how soft my hair feels with it.
Deep Conditioning: Wait, we just went through this, right? Not exactly; deep conditioning is a process that generally calls for anywhere between three minutes to an hour spent with goop sitting in your hair before you wash it out. My personal favourites for this are this quick and easy in-shower option, or Overtone's line of deep conditioning products that come pre-mixed with varying concentrations of hair dye. The one I swear by is extreme teal.
Trimming: I know it seems counter-productive to trim your hair, especially when you're trying to grow it longer, but hear me out; if you don't trim a split end when you see one, that damage can continue running up the length of the hair shaft. Better to kill your darlings when they first appear before they wreak havoc elsewhere. Here are some easy ways to trim your own hair.
Vitamins: If you've tried everything and you're still struggling, vitamins might be a good option for you. Systematic damage can be slowly reversed and healthy hair can be maintained with several key ingredients, including folic acid, vitamins A, C, D, E, B6 and B12. The ones I've started taking have the added benefit of being delicious. Remember to always talk to your doctor and do your research before you start taking any supplemental vitamins for hair or for your general health.
The long and short of it is that yes, my hair is damaged. Truthfully, I don't remember a time when my hair wasn't damaged; as a lifelong swimmer and lover of water, I've spent most of my childhood and my adult life with chlorine-damaged hair. At one point, I spent three days a week in a pool and straightened my hair daily. The tips turned white -- which was a big wake up call for me to start taking better care of my hair!
Next time I talk about hair, I'll shed some insight on how I actually bleach it and what steps you can take to minimize the damage done to your hair in that time. It might seem scary, but the more you know about your hair health can help you!
Until then,
DJ
